Food recalls are a serious issue that, despite stringent safety regulations, can happen without warning—and sometimes, with devastating consequences. One of the most alarming cases in U.S. history was the recall of Jalisco queso fresco and cotija cheeses in 1985, a tragedy rooted in Listeria contamination that led to numerous illnesses and fatalities.
Between January and August of that year, California’s Los Angeles County reported 142 cases of listeriosis, a severe infection caused by the Listeria monocytogenes bacterium. Tragically, nearly half of these cases resulted in death, with many of the victims being fetuses and newborns. Investigations traced the source back to Jalisco Mexican Products, Inc., a company that had been producing these Mexican-style soft cheeses using unpasteurized milk—a dangerous practice that unknowingly set the stage for disaster.
Unpasteurized milk is a significant health risk because, without the proper heating during pasteurization, harmful bacteria like Listeria can survive and thrive. In Jalisco’s case, health authorities argued convincingly that the company had knowingly processed this untreated milk. As the severity of the health crisis became evident, Jalisco issued a recall in June 1985, but it was too late to salvage its reputation. The factory in Artesia, California, was permanently shut down.
The consequences didn’t just stop with the recall. Jalisco’s president, Gary McPherson, and cheesemaker Jose Luis Medina faced serious legal repercussions, being charged with 60 misdemeanors under California’s Health and Safety Code. McPherson accepted a plea deal, leading to a 30-day jail sentence and two years of probation, while Medina served 60 days. They also incurred fines that reached into the tens of thousands of dollars. The fallout from this issue proved fatal for Jalisco, as other cheese producers stepped in to fill the void left by the company’s closure.
The Connection Between Soft Cheese and Listeria
Soft cheeses, while delicious, come with risk factors that we should all consider. Listeria is a key player in many of the significant cheese recalls in U.S. history, and it’s essential to understand why. It’s not just a random bacteria; Listeria monocytogenes, the bacteria responsible for listeriosis, can produce symptoms that mimic the flu or gastrointestinal disruptions. While healthy adults might shake off a mild infection, the stakes are much higher for vulnerable groups like pregnant women, children, and the elderly; for them, listeriosis can be deadly.
What makes Listeria particularly dangerous is its adaptability. Unlike other foodborne bacteria such as Salmonella or E. coli, which flourish at room temperature, Listeria thrives in cool, damp environments like cold storage—making it notoriously difficult to eliminate. This adaptability is why it can survive in products we might not think twice about, such as deli meats, salads, unpasteurized milk, and yes, soft cheeses.
But why does Listeria prefer soft cheese over its harder counterparts? Simply put, soft cheeses contain a higher moisture content, making them a perfect breeding ground for the bacteria. Even when stored in the refrigerator, where we often think food will remain safe, Listeria can continue to grow. It’s also worth noting that the bacteria can form a biofilm, a kind of protective layer that can resist standard cleaning methods. The good news is that Listeria can be eliminated when exposed to high temperatures of at least 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, most soft cheeses are not subjected to this level of heat during production, which raises the risk of listeriosis.
Understanding these dangers is crucial in making informed choices about the foods we consume. In a world where food safety regulations are often taken for granted, staying informed goes a long way in keeping you and your loved ones safe. No one wants to compromise their health for a treat, so it’s always best to opt for safe food practices and to be mindful of what’s on your plate.
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